SewGlo™  ·  Embroidery Machine Integration

SewGlo™
Embroidery Guide

Machine settings, stitch spacing, tension specifications, and critical handling notes for embroidering with SewGlo™ Illuminated Thread. Developed through prototyping and production runs. Results may vary by machine manufacturer and fabric substrate.

8 min read SewGlo™ LT Primary SewGlo™ HD Compatible V2.1
Variant Selection

Which Variant for Embroidery?

SewGlo™ LT is the designed-for-embroidery variant. All machine settings in this guide are calibrated for LT at 0.30mm. SewGlo™ HD can be used in embroidery applications with appropriate tension reduction. SewGlo™ XR is compatible with industrial embroidery equipment capable of handling 0.48mm thread.

SewGlo™ LT  ✓ Primary
Designed for Embroidery
All stitch spacing, tension, and speed values in this guide are calibrated for LT. Best resolution for fine patterns. Use at low speeds on industrial embroidery equipment.
Diameter0.30mm ±0.03
Speed range300 to 600 needle/min
SewGlo™ HD  △ Compatible
Use with Tension Reduction
HD runs on commercial embroidery machines with reduced upper and lower thread tension. Fine detail resolution is limited versus LT due to the wider 0.48mm diameter.
Diameter0.48mm ±0.05
TensionReduce vs LT settings
SewGlo™ XR  △ Compatible
Industrial Equipment Only
XR requires industrial embroidery equipment rated for 0.48mm thread under industrial tension settings. Same stitch technique as HD applies. Currently in pre-production.
AvailabilityLaunching soon
Configuration

Embroidery Machine Settings

Settings below are verified for SewGlo™ LT on a Tajima embroidery machine. Apply these to your machine's control software before running SewGlo™ for the first time.

01
Needle Type

#18

02
Embroidery Type

Plain embroidery, cording embroidery

03
Stitch Type

Plain stitch, satin stitch, tatami stitch

04
Automatic Jumping Stitch

ON. Max jump and stitch length: 3mm. For patterns smaller than 3x3 cm², reduce to 1mm.

05
Cutting Thread / Locking at Start / End Knot

OFF. Manual cutting required to leave 10 to 20cm tail for connections.

06
Automatic Segmentation of Stitches

OFF

07
Automatic Sewing Down

OFF

08
Speed

300 to 400 needle/min for plain embroidery.
400 to 600 needle/min for cord embroidery.

Multi-head machines: SewGlo™ thread can be rewound onto standard embroidery cones for use on multi-head or high-volume embroidery equipment. Thread handling and machine settings remain the same.

Stitch Reference

Stitch Spacing Reference

Use the values below for SewGlo™ LT (0.30mm diameter). For HD, increase spacing slightly to account for the wider thread diameter.

Stitch Type Fiber Diameter Stitch Spacing Stitch Length Notes
Satin Stitch 0.30mm (LT) 0.9mm ≤2cm Best for filled areas and wide coverage
Tatami Stitch 0.30mm (LT) 1.8mm 4mm Use for large filled areas; good overall brightness uniformity
Plain Stitch 0.30mm (LT) N/A 4mm Standard path stitch for outlines and lettering
Plain Stitch (Cord) 0.30mm (LT) N/A 1.5mm Used in cording embroidery; secures thread on fabric surface
Tension Settings

Thread Tension

Tension should vary based on fabric texture and density. Values below were measured on soft woven fabric using a Tajima tension gauge. When pulling the thread by hand, it should move smoothly with relatively low resistance.

Thread Position Tension Range (Tajima Gauge) Notes
Upper thread 100 to 120 Measured on soft woven fabric; adjust for denser substrates
Bottom thread (bobbin) 30 to 35 Lower than standard to avoid stressing the SewGlo™ fiber

The back side of the embroidery should show: upper thread (2 passes) over bottom thread (1 pass). If the back side shows a different pattern, tension is off and should be adjusted before continuing.

For SewGlo™ HD embroidery: Reduce both upper and lower thread tension below the LT values above. Start at the lowest tension setting your machine supports and increase only as needed for consistent stitch formation. HD's higher break strength provides more tolerance, but high tension will still produce inconsistent stitches and increased breakage risk.

Substrate Compatibility

Fabric and Bottom Yarn

Recommended Fabrics

TPU film, woven fabrics, and artificial leather are all compatible. Natural leather is more challenging due to material density and resistance to needle penetration. For natural leather applications, use SewGlo™ HD (the sewing thread variant) rather than the LT embroidery thread, as HD provides greater durability and pull strength through dense materials.

For leather, consider pre-stitching a path with standard thread, removing it, then following the established path with SewGlo™ to reduce resistance and breakage risk.

Bottom Yarn Selection

Use standard yarns such as cotton for the bottom (bobbin) thread. The bottom yarn fineness should match SewGlo™ thread at approximately 0.30mm for best stitch balance and maximum thread visibility from the top face. A bottom yarn that is too thick will pull SewGlo™ through the fabric, burying the light output.

Fabric note for SewGlo™ HD: The same fabric compatibility applies to HD embroidery runs. Set your machine's thread diameter to 0.4mm to account for the slightly larger HD fiber. Bottom yarn should be matched to 0.4mm accordingly.

Critical Requirements

Critical Notes

These constraints apply to all SewGlo™ variants in all embroidery applications. Violations will result in a non-illuminating finished piece.

!
Do not let the needle pierce the SewGlo™ fiber

If the needle passes through the conductor, it creates a short circuit at that point and the thread will not illuminate from the connection to the short. The needle must travel alongside the thread using the cording embroidery overstitching motion to secure it to the substrate. This is the most common failure mode in new SewGlo™ embroidery setups.

!
Use a single continuous thread under 10m

Use a single continuous thread under 10m for uniform luminance. Longer runs create luminance drop-off toward the far end. For complex patterns requiring parallel coverage, keep each segment within 10m and provide each segment with its own power connection.

!
Leave 10 to 20cm of thread at start and end

Do not trim flush to the fabric. The exposed tail is required for stripping back the outer sheath, separating the two internal conductors, and making the power connection. A tail that is too short cannot be connected reliably. This is why automatic thread cutting must be disabled in machine settings.

Thread can be rewound for production use

SewGlo™ thread can be rewound onto standard embroidery cones for use on multi-head or high-volume embroidery equipment. No modification to the thread is required. Maintain the same machine settings as for single-head use.

Power Connection

Connecting SewGlo™ to Power

Connecting SewGlo™ thread to a power lead requires stripping the outer sheath, separating the two internal conductors, and soldering each to the appropriate terminal on your power lead or connector assembly.

01
Strip the outer sheath

Soak 25 to 50mm of the thread end in 90%+ isopropyl alcohol for 30 seconds. The alcohol softens the outer sheath. After soaking, massage the sheath off toward the tip to expose the two internal conductors without damaging them.

02
Separate the conductors

Gently twist counterclockwise to separate the two internal conductors. You will find a larger phosphor-coated conductor (the core) and a fine fibrous conductor. Keep them separated and clean of any shorts between them.

03
Solder and attach

Solder the larger phosphor-coated conductor to the main power lead. Attach the fine fibrous conductor with conductive adhesive or solder to the return lead. Keep the joint as compact as possible for wearable applications.

04
Insulate all joints

Apply heat shrink tubing or electrical tape over all exposed connection points before the product is worn or tested under power. Any exposed conductor at a connection can short against metal fasteners, zippers, or adjacent thread lengths.

Video walkthroughs covering the full connection process are available at the SewGlo™ Connection Guide. For production volumes, Ellumiglow offers custom connection and splicing services. Add a connector at checkout or contact us directly.