Machine settings, stitch spacing, tension specifications, and critical handling notes for embroidering with SewGlo™ Illuminated Thread. Developed through prototyping and production runs. Results may vary by machine manufacturer and fabric substrate.
SewGlo™ LT is the designed-for-embroidery variant. All machine settings in this guide are calibrated for LT at 0.30mm. SewGlo™ HD can be used in embroidery applications with appropriate tension reduction. SewGlo™ XR is compatible with industrial embroidery equipment capable of handling 0.48mm thread.
Settings below are verified for SewGlo™ LT on a Tajima embroidery machine. Apply these to your machine's control software before running SewGlo™ for the first time.
#18
Plain embroidery, cording embroidery
Plain stitch, satin stitch, tatami stitch
ON. Max jump and stitch length: 3mm. For patterns smaller than 3x3 cm², reduce to 1mm.
OFF. Manual cutting required to leave 10 to 20cm tail for connections.
OFF
OFF
300 to 400 needle/min for plain embroidery.
400 to 600 needle/min for cord embroidery.
Multi-head machines: SewGlo™ thread can be rewound onto standard embroidery cones for use on multi-head or high-volume embroidery equipment. Thread handling and machine settings remain the same.
Use the values below for SewGlo™ LT (0.30mm diameter). For HD, increase spacing slightly to account for the wider thread diameter.
| Stitch Type | Fiber Diameter | Stitch Spacing | Stitch Length | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Satin Stitch | 0.30mm (LT) | 0.9mm | ≤2cm | Best for filled areas and wide coverage |
| Tatami Stitch | 0.30mm (LT) | 1.8mm | 4mm | Use for large filled areas; good overall brightness uniformity |
| Plain Stitch | 0.30mm (LT) | N/A | 4mm | Standard path stitch for outlines and lettering |
| Plain Stitch (Cord) | 0.30mm (LT) | N/A | 1.5mm | Used in cording embroidery; secures thread on fabric surface |
Tension should vary based on fabric texture and density. Values below were measured on soft woven fabric using a Tajima tension gauge. When pulling the thread by hand, it should move smoothly with relatively low resistance.
| Thread Position | Tension Range (Tajima Gauge) | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Upper thread | 100 to 120 | Measured on soft woven fabric; adjust for denser substrates |
| Bottom thread (bobbin) | 30 to 35 | Lower than standard to avoid stressing the SewGlo™ fiber |
The back side of the embroidery should show: upper thread (2 passes) over bottom thread (1 pass). If the back side shows a different pattern, tension is off and should be adjusted before continuing.
For SewGlo™ HD embroidery: Reduce both upper and lower thread tension below the LT values above. Start at the lowest tension setting your machine supports and increase only as needed for consistent stitch formation. HD's higher break strength provides more tolerance, but high tension will still produce inconsistent stitches and increased breakage risk.
TPU film, woven fabrics, and artificial leather are all compatible. Natural leather is more challenging due to material density and resistance to needle penetration. For natural leather applications, use SewGlo™ HD (the sewing thread variant) rather than the LT embroidery thread, as HD provides greater durability and pull strength through dense materials.
For leather, consider pre-stitching a path with standard thread, removing it, then following the established path with SewGlo™ to reduce resistance and breakage risk.
Use standard yarns such as cotton for the bottom (bobbin) thread. The bottom yarn fineness should match SewGlo™ thread at approximately 0.30mm for best stitch balance and maximum thread visibility from the top face. A bottom yarn that is too thick will pull SewGlo™ through the fabric, burying the light output.
Fabric note for SewGlo™ HD: The same fabric compatibility applies to HD embroidery runs. Set your machine's thread diameter to 0.4mm to account for the slightly larger HD fiber. Bottom yarn should be matched to 0.4mm accordingly.
These constraints apply to all SewGlo™ variants in all embroidery applications. Violations will result in a non-illuminating finished piece.
If the needle passes through the conductor, it creates a short circuit at that point and the thread will not illuminate from the connection to the short. The needle must travel alongside the thread using the cording embroidery overstitching motion to secure it to the substrate. This is the most common failure mode in new SewGlo™ embroidery setups.
Use a single continuous thread under 10m for uniform luminance. Longer runs create luminance drop-off toward the far end. For complex patterns requiring parallel coverage, keep each segment within 10m and provide each segment with its own power connection.
Do not trim flush to the fabric. The exposed tail is required for stripping back the outer sheath, separating the two internal conductors, and making the power connection. A tail that is too short cannot be connected reliably. This is why automatic thread cutting must be disabled in machine settings.
SewGlo™ thread can be rewound onto standard embroidery cones for use on multi-head or high-volume embroidery equipment. No modification to the thread is required. Maintain the same machine settings as for single-head use.
Connecting SewGlo™ thread to a power lead requires stripping the outer sheath, separating the two internal conductors, and soldering each to the appropriate terminal on your power lead or connector assembly.
Soak 25 to 50mm of the thread end in 90%+ isopropyl alcohol for 30 seconds. The alcohol softens the outer sheath. After soaking, massage the sheath off toward the tip to expose the two internal conductors without damaging them.
Gently twist counterclockwise to separate the two internal conductors. You will find a larger phosphor-coated conductor (the core) and a fine fibrous conductor. Keep them separated and clean of any shorts between them.
Solder the larger phosphor-coated conductor to the main power lead. Attach the fine fibrous conductor with conductive adhesive or solder to the return lead. Keep the joint as compact as possible for wearable applications.
Apply heat shrink tubing or electrical tape over all exposed connection points before the product is worn or tested under power. Any exposed conductor at a connection can short against metal fasteners, zippers, or adjacent thread lengths.
Video walkthroughs covering the full connection process are available at the SewGlo™ Connection Guide. For production volumes, Ellumiglow offers custom connection and splicing services. Add a connector at checkout or contact us directly.
Shop SewGlo™ thread and accessories.
Thanks for subscribing!
This email has been registered!
Before you go — if you have a project in mind and aren't sure where to start, our team will scope it, price it, and build it for you. No minimums. No guesswork.